It delivers one of several input signals the ECM uses to control the ISCV. You should now check the Throttle Position Sensor. If it is moving properly in and out again every time you turn the ignition on or off the plunger and the stepper motor attached to it should be ok. Turn the ignition off and observe the plunger movement again. Now turn the ignition on (do not start the engine) and observe the plunger movement. To make sure that the ISCV plunger is moved correctly remove the ISCV but leave the connector plugged. If it is gone you either have an electrical control problem (not necessarily the ECM itself – please refer to the other tests) or the plunger of your ISCV is stuck. If the problem is still there you have a mechanical problem which has nothing to do with the ECM control mechanisms. And of course you will have a slightly accelerated idle speed with the gear shifter in the ”N” position at some 1,000 rpm. You will observe some ”unusual” behavior when releasing the gas pedal at higher speeds but that’s about it. You can turn the engine off, start it again, and you can drive the car like this for a couple of days if you wish. This is due to the fact that the ECM has a self test system onboard which also checks feedback concerning the ISCV. You will of course get an MIL indication in the dashboard telling you that there is something wrong with the engine. Now, drive the car for a couple of miles and check whether the problem is still there. This way you will have a constant amount of combustion air passing by no matter what the ECM does. Get out of the car and pull the plug which connects that four wire connector to the ISCV. Once you observe the correct idle speed of some 800 rpm with the gear shifter in ”D” position with the car stopped and with theĮngine already warmed up, pull the parking brake and leave the shifter in ”D”. This can – but must not be necessarily caused by a weak battery Now, here is what you should do to figure out if your problem is caused by too much (hanging) or not enough (dying) combustion airīypassing. TEST #2 – TOO MUCH OR NOT ENOUGH BYPASSING COMBUSTION AIR If you don’t observe ”engine dying” or ”hanging at 1,500 rpm” any longer, get yourself a new battery and you’re done. Replace your ”old” battery with this borrowed battery and check if the problem is still there. It doesn’t matter if the amp-hour rating doesn’t match the 72 Amp-hours of the X300-battery.
TEST #1 – WEAK BATTERY CAUSING HIGH RIPPLE CONFUSING THE ECMīorrow a starter battery from a friend’s car which is fully charged and not too old. We will start with some tests to figure out what the possible cause for you engine dying or hanging at some 1,500 rpm might be. So, what I am telling you here – as far as things other than electronics are concerned – I just learned in the past one or two weeks.
I would like to point out one thing first: You can call me an expert when it comes to electronics H/W, F/W or S/W design but I am NOT an expert when it comes to combustion engines. Following the advice of Mark Stephenson – X300 Admin – I have split my guide into 5 pieces in order to be able to post the complete guide.
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